Hook up hydraulic winch
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Superior Jeeps are built with superior components. This was my thinking when I bought a Rubicon, and I will work from this premice over the entire build up of Project Rubi. With this in mind I set out to find the ultimate winch. I've heard all the arguments for and against electric and hydraulic winches, and although electric winches have served me well for many years I decided that only a Mile Maker hydraulic winch was capable of meeting my needs for Project Rubi. There are many reasons why I made the switch from electric to hydraulic, and here are a few: Although electric winches are a little faster when no load exists, when you're stuck really bad when you need a winch the most!
The Mile Marker hydraulic winch is water proof and will function just the same completely submerged. While these upgrades are probably a good idea anyway, I didn't want to have to just to be able to winch effectively. With the hydraulic winch you install it and you're done. I've heard the arguments about using an electric winch when the engine won't run but I figure if your engine won't run then you've got bigger problems than winching.
If you're so deep under water that the engine won't run, the electric winch isn't going to run either. Not for long anyway! When you're upside down, righting your Jeep with any front mounted winch is nearly impossible anyway. For everything you gain by going with a hydraulic winch, the arguments against it seem awful weak. This is why Project Rubi now proudly wears a 2 speed 10,lb. Mile Marker hydraulic winch. The installation process was a bit intimidating at first, but I found that once you tear into it taking it step by step its really not difficult at all.
I looked all over for an installation write-up similar to this one to guide me but I couldn't find one comparable. Because of that I hope that some of you find this write up useful as that is its exact purpose. Remove the forward bolt from the anti-sway bar mount on each side using a 15mm socket. You don't want to get everything mounted only to find out that the plate won't line up. Traditionally it is recommended that you install the plate at this point but I find it more efficient to hook up everything I can off the Jeep first and then simply mount the plate.
Screw the bolts in a few turns only as you don't want to torque them until after the roller fairlead is aligned. Once you have the fairlead mounted you can rotate the winch again and torque the mounting bolts. Remove them but don't discard them yet. Instead, place them into the "P" and "T" holes on the back of the solenoid assembly.
This will keep contamination out of your solenoid assembly during that mounting process. If they aren't there check to make sure they didn't come off with the rubber plugs. Place the flow restrictor down into the smallest hole of hole 1 as shown above. The rectangular cut out will be facing you. Drop it in the cutout that matches the size of the O-ring.
Each washer will drop into its own groove but the fit is not tight enough to support the weight of the washer so be careful on the next step! You need to flip the solenoid assembly over so that the flat washers shown in step 11 meet the rubber washers shown in step 8. If you flip the solenoid over the washers and O-rings fall out, and if you attempt to rotate the winch motor over on top of the solenoid assembly the rubber washers on the winch motor fall out.
After several failed attempts I used a small piece of cardboard to hold the flat washers into the solenoid assembly and after rotating the solenoid assembly on top of the winch motor I slowly and carefully slid the cardboard out. I'm sure there are other ways of accomplishing this, and if you can send me a better way I'll update this page. Regardless, my method worked and I could proceed!
While not absolutely necessary, its probably a good idea to use some lock tite on the threads. Notice the rubber plugs in place to prevent contamination from entering the winch motor during this process. The "P" port will get the elbow connector, and the "T" port will get the straight connector. Rotate the elbow connector to whatever position it needs to be for your intended hose route.
If you're unsure at this point just tighten it all the way down before you screw in the straight connector into the "T" port. You will be able to unscrew it a bit to run your hose horizontally and there is an adjusting nut on the elbow to tighten it in any position. Your power steering pump has two hoses connecting it to the gearbox. The hose that is clamped on is your low pressure return line.
Unless you plan on installing an inline hydraulic filter optional, I didn't feel I needed it you will leave this line alone. Your other hose is your high pressure supply hose, and it needs to be removed. If you have line wrenches on hand you'll use a 16mm wrench on the pump end and an 18mm wrench on the gearbox end. Since its flared hose it isn't on very tight anyway, and can easily be removed using even an adjustable wrench. At this point take one of the rubber plugs they just keep coming back!
Although you could pitch the stock hose at this point I advise you keep it. Should you decide to sell or replace your Jeep later, having the stock hose on hand will make removing your winch much easier. Tighten this connection using two adjustable wrenches. Screw the flared end into the power steering pump. Wiggle the elbow as you tighten it to get it as snug as you can get it with your fingers. You're going to come back after you finish routing your hoses to tighten this connection, but that will be later.
Screw the beveled end into the shorter of the two supplied hoses and tighten that connection using two adjustable wrenches. Remove the rubber boot from the supply port on the gearbox and screw in the elbow fitting. It is tedious but if you take your time its not to bad to get it into proper position. Tighten up this fitting finger tight as well.
At this point you can pick up your entire winch and mounting plate and set them on the frame of your Jeep. Make sure everything is centered and bolt the mounting plate the to frame of your Jeep using the large grade 8 bolts and washers supplied with your mounting plate. If the two bolts provided for your anti-sway bar mount are the wrong size, reuse your stock ones since there is still adequate thread left. Its not really difficult, but routing your hoses can be very tedious if done right.
Route your longer hose coming from the power steering pump in step 15 to the elbow connector on port "P" on the back of your solenoid assembly. Route the shorter hose coming from your steering gearbox in step 17 to the straight connector on port "T" on the back of your solenoid assembly. Tighten the hoses to the connectors using two adjustable wrenches. Follow both hoses making certain they aren't pressing against anything sharp. Make certain they aren't laying against any moving parts such as your steering components which over time can wear holes in the hose.
Keep them off your fan and throttle lever. I ended up using about two dozen zip ties just to ensure proper routing. Take your time here! When you're double certain that your hoses are routed properly, go back up the the connector that screws into the power steering pump. Repeat this same process on the elbow you connected to the power steering gearbox. Now that you're absolutely certain that your hoses are routed properly and all your connections are tightened correctly, top off the power steering fluid reservoir with power steering fluid.
Crank your engine for about five seconds and shut it back off. Top off your power steering fluid reservoir again and look for any obvious leaks. Crank your engine for another five seconds, turn it off, check for leaks, and top off the reservoir. Crank your engine and turn your steering wheel full right and left at least three times. Shut off your engine, check for leakage, and top off your fluid reservoir. Repeat this process as many times as necessary to stabilize the fluid level.
I mounted my circuit breaker using one of the original screws and holes that used to mount my polyethylene anti-sway bar cover from step 2. I mounted my green wire Power In to the circuit breaker using the supplied nut and lock washer. From there you simply connect the male and female connectors and shove all the additional wiring into the hollow cross member on the front of the Jeep frame.
I routed my hot wire coming into the circuit breaker from the battery through the same cross member. Since the electricity is only for working the solenoids and draws only 2 amps total, I plan on eliminating the circuit breaker all together and just running a wire straight from the battery to the solenoid assembly with an inline fuse on the battery end. Since the purpose of this tech paper is to show you how to properly install this winch however, I included the step as shown here.
Water won't affect the function of the circuit breaker, but if it makes you feel better put some shrink wrap on everything shown. At first it looks a bit complicated but after you look at it for 30 seconds it becomes self explanatory. You have two levers and four possibilities. The levers are clearly marked to prevent confusion. Plug your remote into the solenoid assembly, crank your Jeep, pull your cable hook, and press "Out" on the remote.
If the cable spools in, remove the male and female connectors that you put inside the hollow front cross member in step 20 and reverse them. If the cable spools out as desired, press "In" on the remote and spool it back in. Now would be a good time to preload your cable. Free spool your cable out and connect it to a stationary object such as another vehicle or a tree with a trunk protector. Back your Jeep up just enough to tighten the cable and pull up your emergency brake lever a few clicks.
You want enough tension to keep the cable taught but allow the wheels to turn. Spool in the entire spool of cable with tension all the way to the hook.
Mile Marker hydraulic winch ready for the long haul and tough jobs. fail if the winch operator isn't paying close attention to the heat build up. Hey guys, so I've been searching all over the web trying to get a straight forward simple how to on how hook up my winch. & thing I cant seem.
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There are two contemporary powered winch types used today — electric and hydraulic. Regardless of whether you have a single or dual battery set up, electric winches need extreme deep cycle batteries, while your vehicle needs a battery with lots of cranking power.
Superior Jeeps are built with superior components. This was my thinking when I bought a Rubicon, and I will work from this premice over the entire build up of Project Rubi. With this in mind I set out to find the ultimate winch.
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Would you like to tell us about a lower price? Skip to main content. Only 4 left in stock - order soon. Add to Cart. Ships from and sold by Prowinch USA. Have one to sell? Sell on Amazon. Image Unavailable Image not available for Color: Heavy Duty Wire Rope and Hook.
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Winches are an integral work tool and a safety necessity for anyone who uses their pickups in the road building, timber management, professional landscaping, site development and construction trades. A pickup outfitted with a heavy-duty winch brings both self-sufficiency and efficiency to bear in situations that might otherwise call for additional vehicles and manpower to resolve. One step toward that goal is outfitting a truck with strong front-end protection and a lot of pulling power at the ready.
Pump set-up for hydraulic winch
Started by schmalts on Forestry and Logging. Started by Randy88 on Forestry and Logging. Started by GearDrive on Forestry and Logging. Welcome, Guest. Please login or register. Send this topic Print. Author Topic: Dakota Senior Member Posts: Deadwood, South Dakota Gender: Swing'en in South Dakota.
Full Size Jeep Network Skip to content. Quick links. How to hook up a hydraulic winch????? I'm honestly just guessing here, but any insight or advice would be awesome! Also I'd like to run hydroboost someday will mean completely changing how I run every thing in the future or just adding another thing in the sys? Thanks guys!..
Please make sure that you are posting in the form of a question. This kit enables a Mile Marker winch to function as a quick disconnect system for the the front mount if the winch is installed on a receiver-type hook up. Includes hose or cable needed to route system down length of vehicle. Compatible With Any hydraulic winch installed on reciever. Skip to main content. In stock.
Edelbrock announces first diesel spec'd high performance heads
.hydraulic winch set up